Just one Cornetto...

I'm so disappointed that I missed out on Tyrrells Chips political potato chip flavours for the General Election.

Amazingly, rhubarb and waffle flavour wasn't on the list but a competition between Cameron’s Crunchies (Eton Mess), Gordon’s Gourmet (Scotch egg and brown sauce) and Clegg’s Cocktail (hummous and roasted veg) would probably NOT have resulted in a coalition government!


This week's Food of the Week is Ice Cream

so being topical, I'll guess appropriate favourite flavours for the aforesaid three musketeers

Gordon would go for golden butterscotch flavour (if he doesn't sell it off cheap first!)
Dave probably wouldn't get any as Mrs C will scoff his true blueberry scoops during a pregnant craving
Nick Clegg will struggle to choose between Gordon's and David's and then add in some Seville Orange sorbet (to keep his Mrs C happy) with Dave's true blueberry 

Who first had the idea to make ice cream?

According to the ice cream website, the Chinese got in there first again somewhere between 618 and 950 A.D.  It didn't get to Europe until 1503 where it was seen as a chemist's party trick (eat your heart out Heston!) and didn't get used as a sweet delicacy until 1660 when it hit Naples, Florence and Paris. Us Brits were close behind with it being first recorded at a Royal Feast in 1671. And the Americans were last, not tasting the stuff until 1800!
So the Italians started singing ice cream songs early on and travelled in their gondolas to Northern Europe where there was a lot of ice to be had. Huge ice house pits were built to store Norwegian ice near Kings Cross and you can still see them at The London Canal Museum. And at some point, the Cornetto was born.

Where can I find good ice cream?

Tricky. My favourite ice cream in the world is Chocolate Extra Noir and Pistachio from GROM based in Turin and I've never found anything to match it.

Closer to home, good places to go include Marine Ices - a legend in ice cream parlours that has been at its current location in Chalk Farm since 1947; Amorino on Old Compton Street is pretty good too but the coolest (!) is Freggo on Swallow Street (just off Regent Street, Piccadilly end) an Argentinian style late night gelateria where you can make yourself sick on very sweet dulce de leche ice creams or malbec and red fruit sorbets in a very swish environment

On the move, look out for Jude's ice cream with great flavours and the Choc Star van that travels the country laden with frozen treats.

Restaurant of the Week

Bincho Yakitori on Old Compton Street, Soho
http://www.bincho.co.uk/

Despite feeling I was in an episode of Tenko as I walked through yet another pair of Japanese curtains, Bincho is a very cool, modern and simple Japanese eatery. Bincho is a Japanese word for the finest charcoal to be used on a barbecue - apt given that it specialises in grilled skewers! It's a great place to pick lots of small sharing dishes ranging from the seven samurai of 7 types of mini kebab through to more substantial offers of tofu (I was forced to try it by a veggie friend and grudgingly admit that it was actually very nice!), all accompanied by a great range of sake. And perfectly located in central Soho! What more could you want?
Nearest tube is Leicester Square - expect to pay £20 per head although the pre theatre menu is a steal at just £10

Election Fever and a lot of Rhubarb

It just so happens that our General Election hits at the same time as this very British plant comes into season.

Rhubarb, rhubarb, rhubarb. Am I referring to the fruit or to the quality of the debates between our three potential leaders?

Would a stick of rhubarb be better at running the country than any of the three key candidates?

Would a stick of rhubarb keep its mouth shut when the microphone is still on?

Answers on a polling card.

So this week's Food of the Week is rhubarb!

There seems to be very few interesting facts about rhubarb. It doesn't make your pee smell in the same way as asparagus, it's very bitter and its leaves are poisonous. It has been used in Chinese medicine for thousands of years and used to command prices several times those of opium or saffron in medieval times as it was so expensive to transport. It also grows wild along the banks of the river Volga in Russia.

In the UK the first rhubarb of the year is harvested by candlelight in dark sheds dotted around the noted "Rhubarb Triangle" of Wakefield, Leeds and Morley
All a bit dull really when rhubarb has a really distinctive flavour that deserves a much more interesting heritage. I love the fact it's as seasonal as daffodils and creme eggs and that we can't air freight it from Kenya. I also love the fact that it's very adaptable and goes with so many other flavours so well, from almonds to ginger to oily fish.

Where can I find good British rhubarb?

Like most fruit and veg, you can get British rhubarb everywhere. For really good stuff, (as ever) the biodynamic stall at Borough is a good bet and you'll get weird and wonderful shapes too

What can I do with rhubarb?

My favourite recipe for rhubarb is Giorgio Locatelli's rhubarb and amaretto tart - a great mix of flavours although most people wouldn't appreciate having to prepare the rhubarb a day in advance.

Otherwise, stew the rhubarb with a fair amount of sugar and concentrate it so it's not too liquid. Once it's cooled down you can stir it into natural yogurt (with some amaretti crumbled on top) or even use the strained liquid to make your own rhubarb cordial. The mushed rhubarb can be used to stuff oily fish like mackerel or even as a sauce for cod.
Restaurant of the Week

One to splash out in this week... (or just go for a drink at the bar!)

Hix, Soho, London

Mark Hix is a quasi celebrity chef who continues to champion British produce. Go to his restaurant in Soho and you'll find everything from the cocktail list in the bar right through to the menu in the slightly noisy but celebrity studded restaurant based on seasonal British food.

Lovely bar and great food although a little bit pricey - if you don't find rhubarb somewhere on the menu I'll eat my polling card!
Nearest tube is Piccadilly - expect to pay £60 per head

Hot & Cheesy

Week 6

Is it me or is retro the one thing that never goes out of fashion? From Abba to flares to Dynasty style shoulderpads, it's always the rage. Depending on how long her new husband will last, maybe Katie Price's next target will be Peter Stringfellow, so she too can be on trend. Do we care?!

And apparently the retro thing is happening in food too. From the ubiquitous prawn cocktail (slightly updated to include crayfish now) to the comfort food of fish fingers (but this time made of real fish) to the nostalgia of jam roly poly, it's all back in vogue.

So in keeping with that retro theme, and in response to a request, this week's Food of the Week is...

Cheese Fondue!

For anyone lucky enough to be able to go skiing, this is a fairly predictable menu choice. Apparently it was also fairly predictable on dinner party menus in the 70's (as was throwing your keys in the middle of the table) and is back in fashion once more (key swapping non-obligatory). So dust off those skewers and get melting.

Like anything, the final result will depend greatly on the ingredients that go in and the official recipe for a fondue is a combined weight of 600g made up of three Swiss cheeses (important to be authentic), about half a bottle of white wine (leaves plenty for the cook), a bit of cornflour and a few tablespoons of kirsch. Plus some pepper, garlic and accompaniments (Abba compulsory). Full recipe below



Three really good Swiss cheeses to use in a proper cheese fondue are gruyere (6 parts), vacherin fribourgois (2 parts) and bergkase (2 parts). The best gruyere that I have found in London is at KaseSwiss. With the best balance of salty/sweet/creamy/nutty-ness, I am officially addicted. And after two weeks' additional storage due to snow delayed flights, friends still raved over the vacherin fribourgois from the same supplier.

n.b. for those who can't get to London, Waitrose's gruyere is acceptable - it's just not nearly as good as this one!

So what's the difference?

KaseSwiss sources the best quality traditional cheeses from Switzerland by working with small owner operated cheese makers. Because of this, the flavours are much more distinct than those of cheeses large supermarkets can source on a large scale.

Really, you have to go and try some and then you'll know what I mean!

Best Way to Serve

Once your fondue is bubbling, serve with pickled baby onions, gherkins and chunks of white bread to dip into the cheese

Health warning! Don't drink water with fondue as it doesn't mix well with the cheese. Stick to the white wine! (A Swiss person told me that)

Where can I buy them and what's it going to do to my bank balance?



Price: £25 for 1kg
You can also get a fondue mix so you don't have any of the faff which costs £12.

KaseSwiss is in the Jubilee part of Borough Market on Thursdays. Fridays and Saturdays

Restaurant of the Week

Brindisa

This week's choice is Brindisa, now at three locations at London Bridge (Tapas Brindisa), Soho (Tierra Brindisa) and South Kensington (Casa Brindisa).
www.brindisa.com



You may recognise the Brindisa name as the makers of La Chinata paprika which I mentioned a few weeks ago. Their restaurants are great - don't waste your money on big commercial chains when you can eat here!



I've only eaten at the London Bridge branch but everyone I know who has eaten at the others says that they are even better so I would have no hesitation in recommending them. Cost-wise it's medium spend at about £30 per head

Why is it good?
1) The food is fresh, you can see it being made/carved/chopped and it's a great atmosphere
2) They have interesting and more authentic tapas than any chain could offer
3) They have a good selection of wines by the glass

A must is the pimientos del padron (watch out for the 1 in 15 which blows your socks off), the tortilla and any of the hams.

n.b. you can't book at London Bridge

Fondue
Cut a clove of garlic in half and wipe around the inside of the fondue pot
Add the white wine and heat, then gradually add the grated cheese. Mix some cornstarch and kirsch into a paste and add in slowly.
Keep stirring and add more wine if the mixture gets too thick.

Have you seen the Mushroom Man?

Week 5

Yes - it's true - not all children insist on chips and turkey twizzlers. This week I discovered a three year old with a penchant for Mummy's duck pate, as well as my orecchiette and most other things that kiddies aren't supposed to like!

Fact of the week is that 80% of the world's plants require an external source for pollination and 80% of those plants use honeybees as their pollinating agent so plant some lavender to keep them happy (and hopefully stem the massive decline in their numbers).

Eating seasonally

Everyone always talks about eating fruit and vegetables in season (and preferably locally produced). But during the winter months, that's not always so easy because there aren't very many options available, and potatoes do get a bit dull after a while.

And then I noticed this week's Food of the Week which (you might have guessed from the title!) is...

Mushrooms!

I don't know much about mushrooms. In my world, mushroom are white, sometimes chestnut brown, sometimes small and wiggly and sometimes dried. The first two types always seem fairly good value. The second two are a bit more expensive and a bit mysterious which inevitably means I rarely buy them.

And then, as if by magic, the Mushroom Man appeared!



Wild mushroom are in season for only a few months of the year (mainly October to February). And those months just happen to be at the time when not much else is around. Eureka I thought until I saw all the different types and realised I had no idea which ones to choose, how to cook them and in which dishes.



So what's the difference?

Rather than go into a detailed explanation of each mushroom type, the best idea is to just go and try some. You don't need many (fortunately as they are more expensive) as wild mushrooms have much more flavour and can be mixed in with your standard whites. Always cook them rather than eat them raw and if you go and see the Mushroom Man, he'll tell you which are best for what you need.

Ones to try right now include
Wood Blewitt (taken from the old English for blue as it has a blue tinge), Chanterelles and Morels.



Best Way to Serve

Applicable to all types of wild mushrooms!
Fry wild mushrooms in some butter with lots of garlic. Add to a risotto about 5 minutes before it's cooked through for a dish that not only tastes great but looks amazing with weird and wonderful shapes.

Alternatively, do the frying bit with lots of garlic again and then add some cream or creme fraiche to make a really quick and easy pasta sauce. Serve with tagliatelle or linguine.

Where can I buy them and what's it going to do to my bank balance?

Price: £5 for 100g wild mushrooms (yes they are more expensive but lots of recipes only ask for 50g bulked up with the cheaper white or chestnut mushrooms)

The Mushroom Man is at Borough Market on Saturdays
Alternatively, if you want to cheat and have it all done for you, go to Spore Boys for a wild mushroom risotto or a legendary mushroom and cheese sandwich on Fridays at Exmouth Market (near Farringdon) or Saturdays at Broadway Market (Hackney)

Restaurant of the Week

Busaba Eathai

This week's choice is Busaba Eathai at three locations now in central London.
www.busaba.com



According to the website 'it's a Thai casual dining venue that offers a single course eating experience devised to feed you with minimal fuss' and I have to say that it is true to its word.
Set up by Alan Yau (also responsible for Hakkasan, Yauatcha, Cha Cha Moon and setting up Wagamama (which he then sold out of) and one of the people I most admire in the restaurant industry)



Why is it good?
1) Consistently tasty Thai food in a very cool environment across three great locations: Soho (Wardour Street), Oxford Street (Bird Street) and Tottenham Court Road (Store Street)
2) Very good value for money - main courses £6-£11 so medium spend
3) Quick and very good service

Try the Thai calamari with ginger and peppercorn!

Note that you can only book tables at Store Street (Tottenham Court Road). The others are walk in only so you may have to queue but it's a quick turnaround so shouldn't be for long.
Also note that you will probably share a table with other people which can be a lot of fun but you're probably better to go to Yauatcha for a cosy candlelit dinner for two!


urbanspoon rocks