Dotting the i's and crossing the teas

I don't often venture out to the wild west of Chiswick and rarely visit landscaped gardens but this week made an exception to see the new cafe at Chiswick House

You're probably looking at the pic on the left thinking that I've uploaded the wrong photo but actually no, this is the new cafe that opened on 1 Feb 2010, designed by architects Caruso St John (who I am assured are big in the world of architects) and is run by Company of Cooks

What's great is that it has plenty of seating, inside and out, and even outside under a jutting piece of roof to keep you sheltered from the elements. And combined with the surrounding gardens and free (yes really) parking, it's an unexpectedly good location.

The cafe has a simple food offer with good value stews (just £5-£5.50) and toasted sandwiches leading the way with a good selection of British produce sprinkled across the menu. I thought the stew might be just gravy and bits of carrot at that price so was pleasantly surprised to see a good mix of chunks of chicken, big shallots and  other veg. Gravy could have been a bit thicker though to make it less 'soupy'.

So everything was going swimmingly well for Chiswick House cafe until the fateful moment we ordered a cup of tea. You would expect such a cafe to offer a good range of afternoon teas and to take a bit of pride in what they do but no, the pictures speak for themselves - this was British tea served at its very worst with the cheapest teapots, grubby teacups and soggy teabags. At least they didn't put out UHT milk portions.

I'm really quite impressed at the teapot as it's been a while since I've since anything quite so revolting.

They must have spent a fortune on the architects - surely they can get some decent teapots!

So I'm on a mission to do something about the state of tea in London - and I'll tell you some more over the coming weeks...

Eating in Attractive Surroundings

So after last week's view on eating with your fingers, I was asked to consider how attractive company impacted an eating out experience. Actually it was more about a particularly attractive barman who observed the crab crushing ritual in question and seeemed to become more attractive as the bottle of wine emptied...

I've pondered over this observation and come up with the following three scenarios:

1) Splashing out? Very attractive serving staff will be happy to help
It's very hard to say no to an Adonis like barman/waiter who is selling you the most expensive thing on the menu. Surely such a beautiful specimen would never fleece you...?

2) Perfect for crash diets - first dates seriously damage your appetite
Something about first dates generates a phantom stomach staple. All of a sudden, healthy appetites reduce to a sparrow like picking tendency and an 'oh no, I couldn't possibly eat another thing' when all you've had is a lettuce leaf. Thank goodness it's only temporary.

3) Dreadful for waistlines - beautiful thin people make you want an extra helping
How is it that fussy eaters or just people in micro skintight clothing that you know that you will never squeeze into without buying reinforced Spanx just make you eat more. It's some kind of reaction that says 'they're not eating enough so I'll do the right thing and help them out by eating their share too'  Similar behaviours occur when surrounded by teetotallers

So the moral of the story is to choose your occasion carefully, and your company to match!

Food of the week

Drop scones. I've been stunned at the number of people who don't know what drop scones are this week. Not exactly summer food but always very delicious so homework this week is to check them out

Bars of the week

PIX - Neal Street, Covent Garden (and Notting Hill too)

It's not always that easy to find decent bars in touristy zones of central London but PIX is an exception. Located at the far end of Neal Street (from Covent Garden tube), PIX is small, dark and cosy with lots of small tables and stools to perch on. Why 'PIX'? Pintxos is the Basque version of tapas which is clearly too complicated to write in full or to pronounce so they've made it much easier and just called it PIX

The pintxos/tapas are a nice touch with two prices for small and large, and easily charged back by counting up the sticks that hold them together. From calamari to chorizo to tortilla to bruschetta type offers, they're fresh and tasty and mix perfectly with the range of Spanish wines by the glass.

My only concern was that the wine glasses are orange tinted tumblers which made me slightly uneasy about whether I was drinking orange squash...



SKYLON, Royal Festival Hall, Waterloo
I love this bar. Someone reminded me about it again this week. It's so decadent and the drinks are great (albeit extortionately priced) and the view over the Thames from the floor to ceiling windows is stunning. To give you an idea of what it's like, think very exclusive, modern and beautifully designed top floor bar in a Dubai hotel. n.b. I've never eaten here but if you're in the area, make sure you pop in for a quick caipirinha.

Finger food

Short entry today and it's a bit of a story with illustrative examples rather than pics.

After Saturday's blog on artichokes, I've been wondering why I like them so much.
Apart from the obvious liver cleansing benefits that they provide, I've worked out that I like getting involved in food and the more messy and complicated, the better.

With a globe artichoke you get the opportunity to pull it apart leaf by leaf and suck it dry of all its proverbial meat. By the time you've scraped out the heart, you're left with a highly satisfactory pile of chewed up leaves and other related paraphernalia. You've accomplished something and made sure there's no waste whatsoever (a brownie point for any eco-warrior)

Similar experiences may be found with a whole crab. One of the most entertaining dinners I have ever had involved ordering a whole crab with a very good friend. When the aforementioned article appeared, a look of terror appeared over her face as she admitted she didn't know what to do. I didn't really know what to do either but having seen others in the same predicament, we decided that we should attack it with the nutcrackers provided (yes I know they're not really nutcrackers) and tear out every morsel of crabmeat possible. Despite creating a pool of debris approximately three foot in radius around us and possibly over us too, as the poor crab was finally declared well and truly scoured, my friend announced that it had been one of the most enjoyable food experiences ever. So I know I'm not on my own in being a food annihilist.

I also love filleting fish. The more the fish bones look like something a cat has sucked dry in a cartoon strip, the better. It gives me a massive sense of achievement. Parma ham prepping is also good for the soul.

A final comment on finger food. NEVER look down on people who eat with their fingers. Once upon a time, I was somewhere in France as part of an international meeting eating some kind of very large prawn, maybe a langoustine but I can't remember exactly, What I do remember is that the Brits got stuck in with their fingers, wrenching off heads and tails and shells with glee whilst a particularly snooty French mademoiselle delicately and (to be fair) expertly used her knife and fork to complete the same action.

At a certain point, mademoiselle looked up and declared that if she had used her fingers, her mother would have kicked her off the table for such bad manners. Needless to say, the Brits paused to look at each other momentarily, raised their eyes skywards, went up for second helpings and continued to enjoy finger food as it should be enjoyed!

Chok full of goodness!

Apparently, there is a campaign to have a meat free Monday to encourage general carnivores to abstain from meat once a week as it is assumed non-veggies consume animals seven days a week, thereby using up the world's resources. 

I'd rather eat whatever we fancied on the basis it's produced locally (preferably the UK) using locally produced fertilisers/feeds and in season. This alone would significantly reduce energy consumption and support the local economy. No more green beans from Kenya!

Comments welcome!

Anyway, in support of my veggie friends, a meat-free Monday and my own momentary foray into the world of vegetarianism during a particularly dark period, this week's food of the week is a vegetable, of the most interesting kind!

Food of the Week: Artichoke

The common or garden artichoke is really quite special as it's actually a member of the thistle family. Here are a few facts and a few old wives tales...

No one knows from where the artichoke hails although it's generally believed to somewhere in North Africa.

Why the weird name?
The various European names of the artichoke all ultimately come from Arabic al-kharshuf but names have evolved from kaktos (Ancient Greeks) to carduus (Romans) to carchofas (SW France - from Italian carciofo - pronounced carchofo). The english word 'artichoke' seems to come from a Northern Italian dialect of articiocco (pronounced artichocko). I met some people from Ferrara once who endorsed this last fact.

Where did it come from?

Cultivation passed from Naples to Florence in 1466, to Venice in 1480 and then to Avignon and environs from 1532. Somehow the Dutch got in on the game and brought them to Henry VIII's garden in England in 1530. But the Americans weren't sure about eating thistles until the 19th century. Now they are mainly grown in the Mediterranean basin (although we have a few here in Blighty too!)

Things you should know!

According to the Turks you should eat an artichoke a week to keep your liver healthy. According to other nutritionists, it's good for liver, gallbladder and bladder functionality so we should eat more of them.

The artichoke genus is Cynara cardunculus. That's where the Italian artichoke liqueur gets its name

The 'choke' is the fuzzy bit that's inedible - I don't know what the arti bit is.

The Jerusalem Artichoke is an imposter - nothing to do with the artichoke at all.

How to eat

Whole, boiled and served with hollandaise, butter or aioli
Just the hearts, chopped up on a 4 seasons pizza, in pasta or pan fried with lemon and pepper

Where to eat

The Anchor & Hope in Waterloo has amazing globe artichokes when they are season. Union Market in Fulham has beautiful stuffed artichokes in their deli. Otherwise experiment with your own!


Perfect for a Meat Free Monday in July!

A return ticket to the classroom

Hot news! I'm succumbed to pressure and am now on Twitter so if you follow me, I can let you know as soon as I've written a new post. Just click on the Twitter button at the top left.

Not only that but after a June of football and tennis, I've been out to a couple of very cool new places - one of which is open for a limited period only - so the blog takes a slightly different format this week.

1) Penny University, Redchurch Street, Shoreditch (nearest tube Liverpool Street

Apparently Penny University is a term originating from the eighteenth century coffeehouses in London, England. Instead of paying for drinks, people were charged a penny to enter a coffee house. Once inside, the patron had access to coffee, the company of others, various discussions, pamphlets, bulletins, newspapers, and the latest news and gossip. So everyone frequented them and had intellectual conversation.

Spending a penny at Penny University in Shoreditch doesn't get you very far (don't try it!) and it's not a big place either which makes it very special. No sugar, no milk, no espresso, no latte - just pure filter coffee and just three varieties (matched to William Curley chocolates if you prefer).

If you're lucky, Gwillym Davies (2009 World Barista Champion) will impart some of his extensive and fascinating coffee knowledge to you whilst he prepares the best coffee ever from something that you would normally expect to find in a chemistry lab.

If you're really lucky, you might get James Hoffmann (2010 World Barista Champion and the man behind Square Mile Coffee).

Things you should know!

- Three beautiful single estate coffees on the menu originating from Kenya, Ethiopia and Colombia costing from £3 to £4 per cup.
- Beans ground to order using a very special grinder that varies the grind quality (apparently one of the most important variables in coffee).
- A state of the art water boiler and three very cool preparation vessels.

Yes it sounds very nerdy but actually it's not - it's an enlightening and enjoyable way to drink coffee that everyone should try. It's only open until 31 July so hurry up and go!

2) Union Market, Fulham Broadway (Fulham Broadway tube)

Someone has done a stunning job of converting the old Fulham Broadway ticket hall into a food market. A beautiful space that has maintained some of the quirkiness of the old station with ticket desks and signage clearly visible. Even the old ticket office has been converted into a kitchen.

It's all about traceability, sustainability, seasonal and local. A farmers market that's open daily from 8am until 8pm (but you can get an early morning tea or coffee from 7am). From fruit and veg to wine and cider to cheese, charcuterie, bakery and general provisions, you can get everything here, even organic cola bottle gums. In addition, there's a [very] small tapas area and a few tables for something more substantial.

It's a warm and welcoming place to shop and the staff were very helpful and friendly. It's not cheap but the Fulham mummies will love it and I wish it all the best.

Another endangered species

Quick blog this week so I can get an extra one in for June

A dismal week on the footballing front. I'm betting on a Brazil Argentina final myself but there's everything to play for at Wimbledon with both Venus and Roger out. Just think, if Murray gets through to the final, he might even crack a smile...

Away from the sport, it's been a good couple of weeks for weather and for flowers. Yes, flowers are a tenuous link as I thought Chelsea Flower Show was next week (it actually took place in May) and the flower show was going to be the link to this week's blog !

Anyway, this week I'm featuring something that's slightly unusual and possibly not everyone's number one concern but it's has bothering me for some time...

This week's Food of the Week is Chelsea Buns (and I don't mean footballers' bottoms)

I have been on a hunt for Chelsea buns for sometime now. Looking in both new and traditional bakeries to find the elusive bun has come to no avail. Unfortunately, artisan bakers can't seem to crack the CB, with a stodgy, heavy dough and too many currants being the order of the day. They all look nice but fail on the delivery.

According to Wikipedia, 'the Chelsea bun is a type of currant bun that was first created in the eighteenth century at the Bun House in Chelsea, an establishment favoured by Hanoverian royalty and demolished in 1839. The bun is made of a rich yeast dough flavoured with lemon peel, cinnamon or a sweet spice mixture. Prior to being rolled into a square spiral shape the dough is spread with a mixture of currants, brown sugar and butter.'

Traditional bakers don't appear to make them anymore, focusing instead on Danish pastries (that aren't really Danish) or hot cross buns (which I had always thought had the same lifespan as a Creme Egg and shouldn't be seen after Easter) amongst other pink iced treats.

I found one in Harrods that was prepacked from the 'Munch' takeaway sandwich chain which looked really quite revolting. It appears that even Harrods can't be bothered to make things properly anymore.

Chelsea buns in my mind should be soft and light, covered in crunchy sugar and containing a good (but not too much) quantity of dried fruit. You should be able to unravel them like a good Cuban cigar into a flat rectangle of sweet indulgence. You shouldn't eat a Chelsea bun and then spend the rest of the day feeling like a cannon ball has lodged in your stomach.

The only place that I have had a decent Chelsea bun in the last few years is Ludlow, but that's a bit of a trek for a bun so if anyone knows where to find a good example please let me know.


How much should you spend?

Under a pound.

Where can I find a good Chelsea Bun?Answers on a postcard please.

Restaurant of the Week

No restaurant of the week this week. It's still World Cup and Wimbledon so everyone's staying in and I'm on an economy drive!

From black gold to golden goodness!

I WON TIME OUT LETTER OF THE WEEK THIS WEEK!!!

And midsummer's day came and went, as ever in sub zero gloomy weather and prompting the predictable comment 'can you believe it's midsummer?'

And in the same way as England's footballers each get paid the same amount as the GDP of the smaller nations that beat them and in the same way there's a near first round coup at Wimbledon and in the same way we're all going to be stung by huge tax rises at today's budget, 'yes, we can believe that it's midsummer!

n.b. why didn't we set a deal with the England team that for every World Cup match they fail to win, they pay back some of their extortionate unjustified earnings to refill the nation's empty coffers...

Midsummer also marks the end of the British asparagus season so...

This week's Food of the Week is Oil (...and not the BP variety)

Did you know 95% of the world's olive trees are found in the mediterranean region and Spain accounts for over one third of the world's olive oil production?

If you ever travel to Andalucia, drive through the area close to Baena and you'll be blown away by a polka dot frenzy of olive trees as far as the eye can see in every direction. Alternatively, the best olive trees I've ever seen were in Puglia (the heel of Italy and biggest region for italian olive oil production) where the trees are ancient and gnarly, looking as though they're about to come to life!

Extra Virgin Olive Oil doesn't make you fat

True or false?! I don't have clinical evidence to prove this but I was once told by a very slim Sicilian Mamma who was merrily sloshing oil over every foodtype possible that I shouldn't worry as good oil goes straight through you and doesn't make you fat. Fast food and processed food make you fat.

I'll leave the math to you!

There are huge numbers of olive oil varieties - from different olive types to different methods of extraction to just basic industrialised olive oil made up of any old olive. The million dollar question always remains...

How much should you spend and is it worth it?

...and as always the answer is 'depends'

For day to day use in cooking, I think it's fine to have a good quality cheap-ish oil that's not specialist

For salads, or dishes where you will really taste the oil, I think you should spend a bit more and have an oil which adds to the dish rather than takes a supporting role

How much you spend is up to you but £12-15 for one litre of excellent olive oil is a good investment as you'll only use a little at a time.

Where can I find good olive oil?

Taste is subjective so you need to try different oils. Personally, I like Brindisa's choice of Nunez de Prado oil (helped by the fact my big sister helped the old men put the labels on the bottles) but my favourite by a long way is Giuseppe at Borough Market's Calabrian extra virgin olive oil.

Beautiful oil, beautiful flavours from varieties that I've never seen anywhere else and oil that is clear in warm temperatures and cloudy and thick in midwinter. Put this oil on anything and you'll love it AND it's about £12/£13 a bottle!

Giuseppe has funny hair and a strong Italian accent. He is passionate about the food from his home town selling all sorts of beautiful produce from n'duja to wild oregano to jars of olives so jampacked with herbs they ooze the wild aromas of Southern Italy.

Sometimes Giuseppe disappears for a siesta but you'll probably find him under the counter of his stall!

Normally, you can find him in the Jubilee section of Borough Market on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Note to tree huggers
If you want to reduce your food miles, try RAPESEED oil that is produced in Britain. Great for frying anything as it has a really high smoke point (better than olive oil) with lots of health benefits and now becoming more widely available. I haven't found one that is as tasty as Giuseppe's for use in salads yet but I'm sure it won't be long

Note to gourmets

Walnut oil (France) or Pumpkin seed oil (Austria) are beautiful oils with amazing flavours that make something really really special. They're expensive though but you can find walnut oil off the side of the road in Dordogne (see pic) or pumpkin seed oil cheap as chips from the supermarkets in Austria if you have holidays planned!!!




Restaurant of the Week

No restaurant of the week this week. It's World Cup and Wimbledon so everyone's staying in!

GOOD LUCK CLAIRE AND FEDERICO WHO ARE GETTING MARRIED THIS SATURDAY!!!